At the handbag workshop of Shebag, gluing and assembly represent the later production stages, which place stringent requirements on the craftsmanship of artisans. Adhesive application demands precise control over thickness: an excessively thin coat will compromise bonding strength and shorten the service life of the bag, while an overly thick layer will distort the silhouette and natural contour of the finished piece.

A large number of artisans at Shebag previously worked at Dongguan-based original equipment manufacturers producing bags for Prada, bringing with them professional expertise from authentic luxury bag production lines.

For the Lindy 26 model, water-based PU adhesive Aquagum serves as the primary bonding material, supplemented by double-sided tape and reinforcing adhesive for partial areas. The assembly process adopts a frameless soft structure combined with the retourne inside-out stitching technique and four embedded rivets for metal hardware. The entire workflow is predominantly handcrafted with minimal use of mechanical equipment.

The primary adhesive applied to authentic products is imported French Aquagum water-based PU adhesive. Featuring low odour, high flexibility and outstanding ageing resistance, this material works well with the oil-infused surface of TC and Clemence leathers. It is applied in an ultra-thin layer no more than 0.2 millimetres thick along a narrow 1 to 2 millimetre margin, with zero excess adhesive or uneven buildup observed on finished pieces. Double-sided tape is used for temporary positioning on zippers and handle bases, which will later be covered by stitching. Reinforcing adhesive is applied in dot form along the top and bottom edges of metal plates to prevent warping, while no adhesive is used on the two side edges, a key detail for product authentication. Prior to gluing, the wax and oil layer on leather surfaces is degreased using a light application of alcohol or diluted white glue to enhance adhesion, a preparatory step frequently omitted by low-grade replicas, which leads to a higher risk of glue failure over time.

When joining side panels with front and rear panels of the bag body, adhesive is applied along a 1-millimetre narrow edge. Components are bonded via cold pressing without heating, followed by a 24-hour natural air-drying process to preserve the bag’s soft slouchy texture. For zipper channels, double-sided tape is used for positioning together with edge gluing, creating neat and straight adhesive lines without irregular undulations. The connecting tabs between handles and the main body are fully glued where two leather layers are joined, and extra reinforcing dots are added at handle bases, with excessive adhesive strictly avoided at load-bearing points. Interlinings and inner fabrics are secured with intermittent dot gluing rather than full-surface application, maintaining overall softness and preventing wrinkling on the interior.

Low-end counterfeit products in the market typically adopt domestic yellow glue or neoprene adhesive, which emit strong odours, turn rigid and brittle after curing, and tend to crack under low temperatures. Many inferior replicas apply adhesive across full surfaces or overly wide margins, resulting in a stiff bag body that loses natural drape. It is also common for such products to apply adhesive to all four sides of metal plates, differing notably from the standard of authentic pieces where only the top and bottom edges receive reinforcement.

The core structural design relies on the retourne inside-out stitching technique without rigid framing. Leather panels are stitched on the reverse side using saddle stitch with waxed linen thread at a 45-degree diagonal angle. After stitching, the entire bag is turned inside out to conceal seams internally, leaving smooth exterior surfaces without hard ridges and delivering a soft tactile feel. No rigid inner support is installed, and the bag retains its shape purely by virtue of the leather itself, with TC leather selected at a thickness ranging from 2.4 to 2.6 millimetres. The item will develop a more natural and tailored shape with prolonged use.

Metal hardware installation stands as a critical indicator for authentication. Four matte-finished copper rivets are fitted into recessed counterbores, presenting a slight indentation on the front surface with rivet sides completely hidden and no protrusions when touched. The installation sequence includes positioning, hole punching, rivet insertion and cold setting via hand cranking without heating, ensuring rivets sit flush against the leather surface. As specified, adhesive is only applied in dots along the top and bottom edges of metal plates, leaving the side edges unglued so that minor separation is possible. Four stainless steel feet are mounted between double leather layers with nuts fixed on the inner side, ensuring stable placement without wobbling. The bag is equipped with Swiss Riri zippers, fixed by double-sided tape and edge gluing. The zipper tape fits seamlessly against leather panels for smooth operation with no jamming.

All stitching work is completed manually using the saddle stitch method with Au Chinois waxed linen thread. Stitches are evenly spaced at approximately 0.8 centimetres, with the stitch line kept 2 millimetres away from leather edges and sharp 90-degree angles maintained at all corners, whereas most replicas feature rounded corners. Edge finishing involves repeated sanding and three to four thin coats of edge paint. Each layer is fully air-dried before the next round of sanding and coating, resulting in a smooth, non-sticky edge finish that matches the colour tone of the leather body.