Today we’re showcasing Hermès double-needle saddle stitching craftsmanship at the Shebag mini workshop once again. Shebag boasts superb craftsmanship that fully replicates the techniques used on authentic Hermès bags, and every detail speaks for itself.

Originating from the saddle and harness craftsmanship dating back to 1837, Hermès saddle stitching features an interlocking structure with two needles threaded onto a single strand of thread, serving as the brand’s signature core technique. If one thread breaks on a machine lockstitch, the entire seam will unravel. By contrast, saddle stitching features independently locked stitches, so the rest of the seam stays intact even if a single stitch snaps. It delivers outstanding load-bearing capacity and abrasion resistance, allowing leather goods to last for decades.

Stitching Details of Saddle Stitch

The fundamental principle and official standards of the craft

The core mechanism lies in the interlocking design of two needles on one thread.

A single waxed linen thread is threaded through a round hand-sewing needle at each end. The two needles are inserted through the same hole from opposite sides of the leather, crossed in a figure-eight pattern and pulled tight to form self-locking knots inside each hole, with every stitch bearing force independently.

Both the front and reverse sides of the leather display 45-degree angled double wavy stitches; counterfeit products mostly feature flat stitching on only one side.

This technique is exclusively applied to high-stress areas including shoulder straps, bag flaps and bag bases to evenly distribute tension.

Complete set of workshop-exclusive Hermès tools manufactured by France’s Vergez Blanchard, also known as VB.

VB has been Hermès’ designated tool supplier for over a century, with all tools forged in France. The product range covers five categories: leather cutting and skiving, hole punching and marking, sewing clamping, needles and thread supplies, as well as sanding and edge finishing tools.

Leather Cutting and Skiving Tools for Pre-Sewing Preparation

VB Round Skiving Knife

The VB round skiving knife, also referred to as Fourreau bird knife, is Hermès’ primary skiving tool constructed with a brass holder and an ultra-thin curved steel blade.

It is used to bevel overlapping bag edges, shoulder straps and bag flaps by trimming excess thickness from the inner leather layer, enabling seamless lamination of multiple leather layers without uneven bulges.

Variants include wide skiving blades for large folded edges and narrow bird knives for curved corners and tiny hardware attachments, with dedicated blade widths matched to each leather accessory style.

Heavy-duty cutting knives are forged from solid high-carbon steel, delivering burr-free clean cuts on Togo, Epsom and crocodile leather.

Hole Punching and Marking Tools That Determine the Distinct Diagonal Texture of Saddle Stitching

VB Diamond Pricking Irons, also called Griffe

VB diamond pricking irons, or Griffe diamond row punches, are the quintessential tool for saddle stitching. Equipped with diamond-shaped teeth instead of round ones, they punch angled diamond holes that create the signature 45-degree diagonal stitch texture.

The workshop uses custom irons sized for 14 stitches per inch with a 1.8-millimeter tooth spacing, available in 1-tooth, 2-tooth, 4-tooth and 6-tooth configurations for straight edges, sharp corners and curved contours respectively.

A saddler’s awl with a tapered diamond tip is used to reposition holes and fill gaps at corners. It punches at a 45-degree angle to manually adjust hole alignment and ensure layered threading of the two needles.

Creasers are copper heating tools that imprint shallow 0.3-millimeter grooves along stitching paths. Thread settles inside these grooves to avoid abrasion and snapping during daily use.

Sewing Clamping Tools to Free Both Hands for Consistent Tension Control

Stitching Horse Wooden Hand-Sewing Clamp

Custom solid wood stitching horses are standard workshop equipment. They secure leather firmly so the artisan only needs to thread and pull needles, maintaining uniform tension on every stitch. Interchangeable padding inserts for the clamp opening fit leather of varying thicknesses.

Small copper auxiliary fixing clamps hold shoulder straps and small fittings steady to prevent shifting during sewing.

Irreplaceable Sewing Supplies: Specialized Needles and Waxed Linen Thread

John James Round-Tipped Sewing Needles

Dual-Needle Threading Method

UK-made John James round-tipped saddler’s needles are uniformly specified as size 003/004 blunt round needles in the workshop. Their rounded tips avoid splitting thick waxed thread and scratching the leather grain, while oversized eyes accommodate thick linen thread.

One thread strand is threaded with one needle at each end for cross-threading through leather holes.

Hermès exclusive beeswax-coated linen thread stands out from generic polyester thread on the market for the following traits:

It is twisted from long-staple linen and coated with multiple layers of beeswax for waterproofing, mildew resistance and superior tensile strength.

Thread diameters range from 0.43mm to 0.77mm, with fine gauges for thin Epsom leather and thicker gauges for crocodile hide.

After decades of use, the thread develops a smooth warm patina without fading or fuzzing. The wax coating creates natural friction to lock stitches firmly and prevent loosening.