Shebag did not start out making handmade bags. Initially, we produced LV and CC bags due to their strong market demand. Most of these bags were machine-sewn. When we shifted to crafting handmade Hermès bags, we set up dedicated workshops exclusively for handmade production and invested heavily in professional tools. We also adopted a different staffing approach. Instead of employing assembly line workers from Prada’s manufacturing base in Dongguan, we recruited highly skilled artisans proficient in handcrafting. These professionals excel in craftsmanship, techniques and artistic taste. Talents of this caliber are hard to come by, and Shebag has built up expertise in this field through years of dedication and industry experience.

The core of Hermès handmade riveting technique is Pearling, also known as the hand drill method. Derived from traditional saddle making, it combines manual hammering and precise shaping to create smoothly rounded rivet heads resembling pearls and deliver weld-level sturdiness. It is an iconic traditional craft of the brand.

This riveting technique originated from the permanent rivet method used for saddle production in the 19th century, and was later adapted for leather goods. It features rivets set firmly one hammer blow at a time to achieve permanent fastening. The name Pearling comes from the pearl-like rounded shape of the finished rivet heads. In this process, brass or copper rivets go through leather and metal hardware. The protruding ends on the reverse side are hammered and flared, followed by manual grinding and polishing, which ensures structural stability, comfortable touch and distinctive appearance.

High-purity brass or copper is used for rivets. The material features moderate hardness, good ductility and excellent rust resistance, and its surface is usually finished with gold, palladium or gunmetal electroplating. As for auxiliary materials, we use leather with a thickness of 1.2 to 1.8 centimeters, with pre-drilled holes slightly smaller than the rivet diameter. Copper or leather gaskets are applied on the reverse side to prevent leather tearing and disperse pressure. Special heat-resistant edge oil and water-based PU adhesives such as Aquagum are used for auxiliary fixation.

A small round-headed hammer weighing 50 to 100 grams is used to control striking force. Punches and positioning pins enable accurate hole drilling and rivet alignment. Tapered grinders paired with polishing compounds shape rivet heads into smooth matte curves. Hand drills are used to fine-tune rivet positions and keep them perfectly vertical.

The complete handmade process consists of seven steps. First, mark positions on the leather according to the hardware layout and drill holes vertically with a punch. The holes are made 0.1 to 0.2 millimeters narrower than the rivets for a tight fit. Next, insert rivets through the leather and hardware from the front side until the shanks stick out on the back. Tap gently to fix the position and apply adhesive for preliminary securing.

Then flip the leather piece. Strike the exposed rivet shanks vertically and evenly with a round-headed hammer while rotating the piece constantly. The shanks are flared into mushroom shapes, locking tightly against the leather and gaskets for permanent fastening. After that, grind the front rivet heads with a tapered grinder and polishing compound to remove sharp edges and form a 1.5 to 2 millimeter curved surface that feels as smooth as pearls.

Artisans further refine the pieces with fine sandpaper and agate burnishers to eliminate hammer marks and unify the surface luster. Each rivet bears unique natural hammer textures. Adhesive is applied to the flared rivet ends on the back to stop loosening, before the gaskets are pressed firmly in place. The leather edges are coated with a thin, even layer of dedicated heat-resistant edge oil. Final inspection is carried out to ensure all rivets stand straight without tilt, with smooth, burr-free heads and solid fastening that will not come loose under pulling.

There are distinct features to identify authentic handiwork. Rivet heads on the front are gently curved with a matte finish, free from the glossy sheen of machine-made products. Faint hammer marks and tiny indentations can be seen around the edges, typical signs of manual work. On the reverse side, the flared rivet ends form irregular mushroom shapes with natural textures, fitting closely against the materials without gaps. They sit slightly below the leather surface instead of protruding.

For multiple rivets such as the four corner studs on Birkin bags, the spacing and alignment are even overall, yet carry subtle irregularities inherent to handcrafting, unlike the absolute precision of machine production. The rivets feel sleek to the touch with no sharp edges, and the reverse side stays flat and comfortable against the skin.

Handmade Hermès Pearling rivets feature gently curved matte heads with natural hammer marks, while machine-stamped rivets are perfectly round with a glossy surface and no texture at all. The rear ends of handmade rivets are irregular mushroom shapes sitting slightly recessed, whereas machine-made ones are flat, regular and raised with obvious press marks. Hand-aligned rivets have minor variations in arrangement, while machine rivets are completely symmetrical. In terms of durability, handmade rivets offer weld-grade permanent fastening, while machine rivets are less sturdy and tend to loosen over long-term use.