This is the Hermès Mini Kelly II, crafted from iconic Epsom leather with exposed saddle stitching. It is the most frequently produced bag in the Shebag workshop, being manufactured nearly every single day.

The Sellier exposed-stitch version of the Mini Kelly II comes standard with Epsom leather, a grained calfskin sourced from Germany’s Wanhamel tannery, which serves as the ideal medium for exposed-stitch construction, with the craftsmanship and leather complementing one another perfectly.

This leather features a heat-pressed grain surface free of raised natural pores, boasting an evenly fine texture, exceptional rigidity, a slim profile and firm structure. It repels water and stains while resisting scratches, and its corners do not collapse when folded, perfectly meeting the requirements of exposed outer stitching for a straight, rigid silhouette.

In comparison with soft leathers such as Togo and Clemence, soft hides develop wrinkles and stretched, distorted perforations when made with exposed stitching. Only Epsom leather can sustain crisp, sharp right-angle outlines for exposed-stitch designs over extended use. There are distinct structural differences between Sellier exposed stitching and Retourne hidden stitching.

For Sellier exposed stitching, leather panels are joined face-to-face, leaving raw edges fully visible. Full saddle stitches lie exposed along the exterior of the bag, serving dual purposes of structural reinforcement and defining visual lines. The sides and base feature sharp right angles with virtually no flexibility. Retourne hidden stitching involves folding leather faces inward before sewing; once the bag is turned right-side out, all stitching remains concealed internally with no visible exterior seams, creating a soft, relaxed silhouette that is rarely paired with rigid Epsom leather.

The Mini Kelly II boasts compact dimensions measuring 19 by 13 by 5 centimetres. The combination of exposed Sellier stitching and Epsom leather delivers a bag with sharp, defined edges and an elegant, streamlined form, establishing it as the benchmark for formal handbag styles.

Close-up shot of saddle stitching on Epsom leather Sellier bags

At the core of Shebag’s construction lies saddle stitching, a dual-needle technique that represents Hermès’ exclusive heritage equestrian craft dating back to 1837.

The foundational principle of this stitch utilises a single length of Fil au Chinois waxed linen thread threaded with one hand-sewing needle at each end. Artisans pass both needles alternately through pre-punched identical holes from opposite sides of the leather, forming interlocking figure-eight knots within the leather layers that allow each stitch to bear tension independently.

This delivers superior durability compared to industrial machine lockstitching, which relies on interlocked twin threads where a single break unravels an entire seam. Even if one strand of linen thread wears through in saddle stitching, surrounding stitches remain locked in place to prevent seam separation. Every part of the Mini Kelly II is entirely hand-sewn without any machine work; all exposed outer seams, handles, clochette tabs and shoulder strap mounting patches are finished purely with hand saddle stitching.

The standard thread used is Fil au Chinois, French waxed linen thread commonly referred to as French linen thread.

Special Fil au Chinois waxed linen thread

Composed of long-staple pure linen, this thread offers far greater tensile strength than nylon and resists abrasion and fuzzing. It is pre-impregnated with beeswax at production. Friction heat generated during sewing melts the wax, which seeps into each stitch hole to form a waterproof seal that shields Epsom leather fibres from degradation caused by sweat and moisture. A uniform 0.57-millimetre thread diameter is specified for all Mini Kelly II exposed stitching, available in two colour variants. Matching thread creates a subtle, unified finish and is the primary choice for everyday styles. Contrasting off-white thread, the most iconic option, pairs with gold brown or black Epsom leather to highlight sharp defined stitch lines on the exterior, commanding higher collectible value and resale premium. The thread maintains a matte, non-gloss finish. Over prolonged wear, oxidation of the beeswax develops a smooth, mellow patina without turning shiny, cracking or shedding wax layers.

Hermès enforces stringent official stitch standards exclusive to the Mini Kelly II Sellier design.

Stitch density is calibrated at fourteen stitches per inch along main structural seams including the base, side panels and flap outer frame, equivalent to fourteen perforations per 2.54 centimetres. High-tension areas such as handles and hardware mounting tabs are reinforced with a tighter sixteen stitches per inch, maintaining perfectly consistent spacing without uneven gaps between stitches. The signature 45-degree diagonal stitch profile stands as a key authenticating marker for genuine pieces.

Each stitch on the front face slopes diagonally upward from left to right at a precise 45-degree angle, with perfectly mirrored stitch angles on the reverse leather side. No enlarged holes, bunched thread or overlapping stitches appear at curves or corners, with smooth seamless arcs through all transitional bends.

This uniform angle is achieved through consistent hand pressure developed over years of training, as artisans steady the leather with their left hand while guiding needles with their right, a uniform motion impossible for machinery to replicate with identical 45-degree diagonal stitching across an entire bag. Hole punching is completed as a preliminary step prior to sewing.

Specialised Blanchard diamond chisels punch perfectly vertical clean holes without tearing the leather. The dense compact grain of Epsom prevents whitening or splitting around perforation edges, with hole dimensions engineered to fit the linen thread precisely, eliminating hollow gaps within each stitch opening.

Shebag follows designated stitching layouts and intricate finishing processes for every section of the Mini Kelly II Sellier bag.

The main outer frame of the bag showcases its signature exposed exterior stitching.

Continuous unbroken saddle stitching runs along the full length of side panels and the base, navigating right-angle corners with a single seamless stitch transition, with no signs of cut and reconnected thread lengths. After joining two layers of Epsom leather, raw edges receive a minimum of three coats of hand-applied plant-based resin edge paint, resulting in thin, matte, finely textured edging. Stitching runs parallel immediately inside the painted edge at a fixed consistent distance of 1.8 millimetres from the leather perimeter throughout all seams. Three additional locking stitches reinforce each of the four base corners to stop seam pull-apart damage from long-term surface placement.

Shebag employs specialised stitching techniques to secure hardware on the clochette and front flap.

The leather clochette tab terminates with 45-degree diagonal saddle stitching finished with three locking stitches at the tip, with thread ends tucked fully between leather layers so no knots are visible on the bag’s exterior. Standard triple reinforcing stitches secure the hardware mounting tabs on both sides of the front flap; double stacked leather panels are sewn at all high-tension connection points to prevent tearing of thin Epsom leather from hardware strain. Hand-set brass Perlage studs fasten leather mounting patches, with smooth flush stud ends embedded within the leather. Stitching neatly routes around each stud without covering the base of the metal hardware.

Shebag applies refined stitching methods to attach handles and shoulder strap lugs.

At the joint where each handle connects to the bag body, teardrop-shaped positioning holes are encircled with reinforced dense saddle stitching over double stacked leather layers for extra structural support. Small shoulder strap mounting lugs receive full perimeter tight saddle stitching, retaining a consistent 45-degree stitch angle through every curve with no warped or distorted seams.

Shebag utilises a professional thread locking finishing process that leaves zero exposed thread knots.

At the start and end of every seam segment, artisans tuck linen thread tails deep between the two layers of Epsom leather. A leather awl compresses the waxed thread in place, secured permanently by the adhesive properties of beeswax, leaving no visible knots on either the front or reverse side of the bag. Counterfeit bags commonly feature unsightly raised thread bumps on exterior surfaces from improperly finished exposed knots.